Maintenance Guide

Wheel Bearing Preventive Maintenance

Sealed hub assemblies require no maintenance - they are replaced when worn. Serviceable tapered bearings need periodic repacking. Either way, early detection saves money and prevents dangerous failure.

Quick reference: sealed hub vs tapered

Sealed hub assembly (most 2000+ cars)

  • No maintenance possible - sealed for life
  • Inspect annually for noise and play
  • Replace entire unit when failed
  • Expected life: 85,000-100,000 miles

Serviceable tapered bearing (older/trucks)

  • Repack with grease every 30,000-50,000 mi
  • Inspect preload adjustment at each repack
  • Replace races and rollers if pitted or scored
  • Life: indefinite with proper repacking

Annual Inspection Checklist

Wheel play test (jack-up)

Jack each corner safely and rock the wheel at 12/6 o'clock. Zero play = good. Any play = begin monitoring or replace. Takes 10 minutes and no special tools.

Spin test (engine off, jacked)

Spin each wheel by hand. Smooth and silent = good. Rough, notchy, or grinding = bearing damage developing.

Noise assessment (road test)

On an empty road, perform the swerve test at 40-50 mph. Any hum that changes with steering input = bearing showing early wear.

Visual inspection (wheels on)

Inspect the ABS sensor wiring harness at each hub for chafing, pulling, or cracked insulation. Water intrusion via damaged wiring can contaminate the bearing.

Axle nut check

After any wheel removal (tyre rotation, brake job), verify the axle nut has been retorqued to spec. A loose axle nut will destroy a bearing within 5,000 miles.

How to Repack a Tapered Wheel Bearing

For older vehicles and trucks with serviceable tapered bearings (not sealed hub assemblies). Requires wheel removal and access to the spindle.

1. Remove the wheel and dust cap

Remove the wheel. Pry off the dust cap from the hub center. Clean the area with brake cleaner.

2. Remove cotter pin, castellated nut, and outer bearing

Straighten and remove the cotter pin. Remove the castellated nut and flat washer. Slide out the outer tapered bearing cone.

3. Remove hub, extract inner bearing, and clean

Pull the hub assembly off the spindle. Remove the grease seal (replace it - do not reuse). Extract the inner bearing cone. Clean all bearing races, cones, and spindle with brake cleaner.

4. Inspect races and cones for pitting

Look for pitting, scoring, or brinelling on the race surfaces. Any visible damage = replace both the race and the cone as a matched set. Races must be pressed out; cones can be hand-packed.

5. Repack with wheel bearing grease

Work high-temperature wheel bearing grease (NLGI #2 or #3, 350°F minimum) into each cone by pressing it between your thumb and palm, forcing grease into all the rollers. Pack the inside of the hub with a thin layer of grease.

6. Reinstall and adjust preload

Install a new grease seal. Slide hub onto spindle. Install inner bearing, washer, and castellated nut. Adjust preload: tighten the nut to 15-20 ft-lb while rotating the hub, then back off 1/4 turn. The hub should have zero play but rotate freely. Install a new cotter pin.

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